14th and 15th Oct. Final walk, to Pedasa 3 hrs 15 min. 12k. 1500 ft ascent, 1250ft descent – to dolmus.

I did little on Friday except the underwater archaeology museum, a must if you are ever in this part of the world. The finds from the Bronze Age ship wreck are spectacular and then there are two other wrecks as well. All set the Bodrum castle. Apart from that I wandered the town, found the bus station and brought my ticket out of here for Monday, had an excellent sea food dinner in the restaurant right next door to my hotel. Not cheap, but good.

The today I decided to do a final hike. Started about 9. On the sea front I met this strange bird. His expression reminded me a bit of Marvin.


The route took me passed an old theatre


and  I was soon rising above the city. 


Eventually the climbing stopped leaving me with this view while I got my breath back.


An undulating section followed, mainly of forestry roads, though there was one section which was overgrown path. Fortunately bathe waymarks were in good order through this part.

I eventually saw that I thought were the ruins I was heading for. Fortunately I did not try to bushwacking to them because they were not my final destination, this was.


It is nice old ruin. They have built stairs up to it so it is quite accessible.


It has been partially excavated and is nice to wander around. I got to the tower


But the views were not very good because of all the trees that have grown round the site.


After my explore I set of down the road to modern civilization. I was wondering why the site was called the acropolis when I came to the old town. Another fair sized site, the photo doesn’t do it justice,  but not one I paused at to explore.


It was then on down the hill on a good road, I had obviously come in the back way, down into the suburbs, until I was able to catch a dolmus back into town ready for a good lunch so I treated myself to some lamb chops.

The rest of the afternoon passed in idleness.

Tomorrow I am taking another boat trip. I hope it is going to be warm enough to swim, to day the wind was strong and cold from the north. Well it seemed cold to me on the top of the hills, though I was just in shorts and a short sleeved shirt. We shall see. After that it back to the UK and then Canada. I hope you have enjoyed coming along with me.

Michael

13th. October. To Bodrum by land and sea.

Just about walked out  and time to start winding my way home. So today I made my way to Bodrum where I will act the tourist for a couple of days before making my way back by degrees to Dalaman  for my flight back to the UK.

The day started ominously with a pre dawn shower, actually just a warning to bring in the laundry off the drying line, and then an hour later, a heaven opening downpour. The third rain this year, and the first since the end of winter I was told. It cleared the air and brought out new scents from the countryside.

After breakfast and paying my bill I said my goodbyes and started the 2 hr walk back to Datca along part of the Carian way. I was shown the way by my hosts dog who kept with me for the first 45mins. It was only after I messaged back asking for advice that he decided to abandon me. 

View back over village where dog abandoned me

The trail ended up in old Datca, a nice old village of flower bestrewen stone walled houses, boutique shops and restaurants and cafes.


 I stopped for a while and had an icecream before walking on to modern Datca.

I was told I wouldn’t like Datca, but I do. It is a real town, not designed for European tourists but for its residents and Turkish holiday makers. Iris end of season here but nonetheless it has an energy and bustle. 

View from my lunch spot

After ascertaining where the shuttle to the ferry departs from I had a light lunch, and an icecream the went in search of a nice view to sketch and so pass the hour until the shuttle left. I was unsuccessful so instead sat a wrote this to this point.

7.00pm Bodrum. The trip here worked a dream. The shuttle bus arrived on time, the boat left on time. It was warm enough to sit on the upper deck despite a 20 knot breeze across the deck. The crossing took just under 2 hrs. Nice views to windward towards the Greek islands, hazy looking east up the Gulf.


Bodrum harbour is packed and the town is buzzing. 


It does not feel like end of season here. A bit of a shock after a week in the quiet of the Datca peninsula.

I found my hotel easily, helped by a big sign on the side of it visable from a ways off. 


I have paid extra for a sea view room and got immediately rewarded with a gorgeous sunset as soon as I entered it. 

12th. Oct. to Domuzcukuru and return. 12k., 3 hrs 45mins., 1450 ft ascent and descent. 

A trip to the seaside and back.

To avoid a 20 k round trip I was given a transfer to within about 5 k of the beach and we agreed a time to pick me up in the afternoon. 2hrs Altay reckoned to the beach, turned out 1 hr 20 was all I needed.

It had tried to rain over night, and was overcast when we left but the skies soon lightened. Most of the trail was on forestry roads, some newly broadened. 


Mostly thru pine woods. As I got closer to the coast the views started appearing, and then the bay which was my final destination. 


The final descent was on a nice gradient path. All well way marked so no route finding issues. On this descent I met two Ukranians coming up, with their dog! They looked tough but hot and tired.

By the bay is a deserted and now delabidated resort with a caretaker/hermit called Mosses (well that’s the anglized version). I was imagining a 60 yr old white bearded gent. Turns out he is a fit, if long haired, well tanned 30 yr old. He offered me coffee and water, so I am told he was having one of his better days. His cell phone seemed to be ringing for him constantly.

He wasn’t around when I first reached the beach. He only appeared for the far rocks after I had had my first swim and had started my sketching. He has chickens, solar panels and a small rib so he can go round the courner to Datca easily to pick up liquor and other supplies.


I sketched and ate two bars ( I discovered early that morning that my ziplock bag full of nuts, raisins and the like had been invaded by tiny ants and had decided to junk them, so there went my emergency supplies, bar bars). I swam again and then made my way back up the hill.


I was early to the rendezvous- vous and so kept walking.  Just before 3pm I was met on the road and given a lift the final few k back here (Climbing Datca Camping). On the way we picked up my host and hostess who had been out climbing. The climbing here includes this spectacular cave.


Then back for shower, laundry, swim and a beer.

On to Bodrum tomorrow is the plan.

11th. Oct. to Knidos and its lighthouse. 11k. 990ft vertical.

After breakfast I was driven to a beach about 5.5k from Knidos from where I started hiking. ( about 10.20)

A very nice hike, first along the shore,


and then striking inland to cut across a small peninsula. On the way passed a large arable area scattered with buildings with obvious ancient and more modern parts, as well as bits of ancient walls and foundations.


In the middle of a field was an old round cistern, a fine example, but completely dry.


After that it was up a small valley and suddenly there was the lighthouse.


A longish traverse round the end of a mountain brought me out above the ruins of Knidos. It was a big place. No one photo can show it all so here are a couple of highlights.



I spent some time looking around and then carried on to the lighthouse.

After the lighthouse I returned to the restaurant by the gate to the ruins and had lunch. Over lunch chatted to two young but very experienced German hikers who are on the trail. Camping. Then sat at sketched while waiting for my ride back to arrive. ( 3.30pm)

10th. Oct. Mesudiye to Palamutbuku 8k 2hrs 45 mins. 1100 ft vertical. 

A much easier day today. A late morning with breakfast at a small restaurant just before the main road. 10 am dolmus to Mesudiye arriving at this pretty sea side town about 10.30. 


There is a coast road between these two villages but after passing a beach 


And going thru a village the trail goes up to balcony above and follows along above the road until descending at a start of the long beach that is Palamutbuku. A relatively easy walk with great views once the balcony had been reached. 



A little trouble finding the start of the way down again, not coming down was definitely not as pleasant as going up. 


Pretty hot and sticky by the time I got down so stopped for lunch and a cool down at the first place on the beach. After which I continued along the village front to the small harbour at the other end of the beach ( about a k). The front was made attractive by an almost continuous line if trees at the top of the beach under which many cafes and restaurants had seating places. 


Not many people around, just a few. Many, but all, of the hotels and restaurants were closed. It was a beautiful day but with an afternoon temperature of 33C I was quite glad I had not planned to walk any further.

I caught the 3 o’clock dolmus back here. Swam in the pool and read a Morse in the late afternoon sun while sipping a beer. A nice afternoon.

9th. Oct. Selimiye to Selale to Hisaronu to Datca. Trail 14k. 4hrs 40mins. ~1500ft vertical. Total nearer 22k by foot and an 8 hour day. 

Wonders, the dolmus arrived dead on time, 10am and took me to the start of the hike at Selale. While there was some flowing water, the stream looked pretty tired and the trees dusty so I did not linger. 


I was soon walking down a pleasant shady country lane enjoying a peaceful cool morning. 


After 1/2 an hour there was a little detour to see a nice tomb, 

Inside tomb

then back to the road and on into the village of Turgot. Pausing before entering the village I noticed that I had missed a large loop of the trail up to Hydas. Ah well, I didn’t feel much like a 2 hr scramble away, beside I now had a chance of completing the stage if I wanted too.  So on thru the village where two mobile veg and fruit shops were doing good business from the back of their vans. Back on trail again and on to the next village. The village lane ended up back at the main road and then took the direct route over a ridge while the main road had to go a long way round. A nice trail up the ridge. 


Not too steep under sweet smelling pine trees, then down the other side, rejoin the main road for the rest of the way into Orthaniye and its bay. 


Interesting sand spit had Sunday trippers exploring it.


Stopped for a light lunch and research, stay or try and finish the section. No sign of the suggested accomodation, besides its only 12.45, so let’s move on. Two hundred meters on I pass the accomodation. Looks nice but decision is made.


More road walking, which turns into lane, then a track and then a path leading up into the pines again. At a major bee keeping clearence I met a forestry road which takes me to the crest. It is on this section I get a text from Altay saying he will be in Dayca tonight if we want to meet up. I would like to so now have a timeline to worry about. From the end of the trail it is about 3 k to the main Marmaris to Datch road, busses go every hour ? , trip takes about an hour, then I have to find the campsite he says he is at! Doable but no daudling. Ok on to the crest and  up into the ruins of Kastabos. 


Over some nice supporting walls into a complete jumble of fallen blocks – earthquake? Blocks are impressively smooth. None of the promised view, all the surrounding vegetation has grown too tall. There is the possibility of clambering up a rock to see over the veg but not being Colin I decide against it. Ok now how to get back to modern civilization. I can not find another trail out of the ruins so finally decide I have to go back the way I came. Smart aren’t I.  Sure enough I find a lower branch to the trail descending, as advertised, through an olive grove. The olive grove hides the remains of a theatre its rows of seats just making themselves visible in the low scrub.


Then on down again. No forestry track this time but an overgrown path which occasionally disappears into the very scratchy undergrowth. Still I manage to keep refunding it and make my way fairly rapidly back down the hill. I eventually rejoin the forestry road. It is lined with bee hives. 


I get stung in short order, and spend the rest of the descent giving them as wide a birth as possible.

Suddenly it is over and I am on a main road I the back of the village. A 3k hike to the main road is fairly rapidly dispatched, stopping only to buy and consume a litre of peach juice at the only market open along the way. On reaching the main road I am told a bus will be along in 10 minutes and sure enough it appears as forecast. 1 hr air conditioned bus trip to Datca ensues.

Altays instructions on how to find this place “climbing Datca camping” are somewhat vague and it is not showing up on any Google search so I take his other advice and take a taxi from the bus terminal. Only problem, they don’t know where it is either! I give would be helpful taxi driver Altays phone number, instructions are translated and off we go into the wilderness. And here I am, in a campsite 2 k down the trail. Not so bad, they are permanent yurt style tents with wooden floors and beds with mattresses. There is a communal cooking area and toilets and showers. 


Also there is an attached house with pool where Altay and girl friend are staying for a week ( I need not have hurried). Shower. Long chat. They feed me. Then bed. Whew.

8th. Oct. Day off in Selimiye

It’s going to be hard to pick today’s photographs. No walking today, instead I went on a boat excursion which was excellent.


We left at 10 and got back at 6. We stopped many times to swim, and for a grilled fish lunch, but the highlight was a visit to “Church Island”. This did not look much as we approached it, but when you climb up to it and discover it’s decorated trees, mosaics, ruined windows for framing shots, and it’s goats, it is a delightful surprise. Any where are some pictures from the day in roughly chronological order.

Leaving harbour
Clouds building up on the mountains

Church Island







I think I have tomorrow sorted. If I stick to the trail then I have a 20k, 8hr, 6000ft vertical day into those clouds seen piling up in that direction, and then back down again, or I can keep this side of the mountains and take a bus which in about 20mins will take me to where the section ends, but still requires 3 hours to get to the next accomodation. The bus does leave till 10 so I can have a nice leasurely breakfast.

7th. Oct. Selimiye. 8.1k. 2hrs 45 mins. 700 ft vertical.

I left Bozburum late, almost 10.30, despite being up since 7. On waking I thought to check what time breakfast was: 9. – 11. . What to do? I couldn’t just leave as I hadn’t paid. But short day planned no no real time pressure. Tried to pass time on Internet only to find it had been shut down overnight. Went for a stroll around town. A few other early risers but not many. Back to room packed all but last few items, dawdled. It was after 9 when the non English speaking waiter turned up to open up. Got tea. No offer of anything else.

Great room, food and price, but not morning people

Here are some pictures of the suite

The fridge meant that i had a cold drink all morning.


Then a couple of Australians arrived looking for accomodation. Waiter sidetracked into dealing with them, calling out a woman I had never seen before to help. Then the two nice ladies from yesterday appeared, with vegetables, and waiter made them breakfast. I got them into the act, found my bill, paid it and left without any breakfast. Pissed off.

Picked up some water and a couple of bananas at one of the now long since open stores, and set off, hoping to get up the inevitable hill before it got too hot. I was sort of successful. A steady hours walk got me this view looking back. Remarkably I barely had to use the GPS.


Then at the top this development.


After that I was on an easy to follow track all the way down. On the way down the track enter sweet smelling pines and passed  a water source.

Then the village and the bay came in view.


When I got to the waters edge I stopped at a hotel to look at the water and got ripped off for the price of an iced tea. Then on into the village and here, one of the places recommended by Altay. Got a room, knocked down from 200 to 130 TL ($55) No charm required. Room #1! Changed, had a quick swim and then a seafood salad for a late lunch.


After lunch I went for a walk along the waterfront into the village proper. Lots of nice boutique clothes and local crafts. No joy arranging boat/ snorkelling for tomorrow, nobody around to arrange it with, but took a flyer and have texted and emailed him so who knows. Will probably stay here tomorrow anyway. Got over heated on this stroll, despite ice cream, and came back here in bad mood, since dissipated by gin and tonic and a nice meal.

6th. Oct. Bozburum, 11k., 4.5hrs. 500ft vertical.

A much easier day ending up in a nice place.

After a leasurely breakfast and packing my rucksack again, I said good bye to my hosts for the last three days and hit the trail about 8.30. 

As an experiment I set my GPS to record my track in for when I lost the trail again. I did not need it for quotes while. 

The first section of the hike was along the beach, round/over a point, and then across another beach to a small marina.

Looking back early on.

I passed a tomb with a pyramidal roof and some obviously old building blocks.


I stopped at the marina and brought a cold water and a banana for later. Chatted to a group of Danes on a cat. 


The last day of their charter, back to Marmaris today – and it took me a week to walk here!

There were gullets all over the place, in varies stages of construction.


Then on the the end of the bay and the start of the day’s climb. Moored at the end of the bay was a gulet looking very attractive.


Up a steep hill and then a long gradual with an easy to follow trail. Then it suddenly disappeared in low scrub at the edge of a steep descent down to a road by the sea. Finally found it and from there on it was straightforward.

Bozburum is a centre for boat building and repair, as became obvious on the walk into town.


I had booked a cheap place to stay but didn’t like the look of it so I carried on by. I stopped a a tiny empty  restaurant on the front advertising mojitos to mull my options and have some lunch. One nice tuna salad and a mojito later I was chatting to to two groups of Turks who had come in after me. One set were retired general and their wives (not recently) the other were 2 well dressed middle aged ladies, one of whom had been all overCanada following her daughter as she learnt English and found various jobs. Their he had hiked part of the Lycian trail. All interested in what I was doing, were you were, etc. In the end they pointed out the the restaurant had rooms to let. Not expecting much I was led out back through the kitchen to a patio on the other side of which was a new building with suites to rent. Enormous, clean, well furnished. Mine for 100TL, a bargain and cheaper than what I had just cancelled.
The off to explore. It’s a nice little town, with actual fresh fruit for sale. Serhan had texted me a list of Gulets to look out for. I found one of them, went aboard at the invite of the captain and looked it over. It would do for next years cruise, but so would many others. Still it is nice to see in person so to speak, rather than reliving on photos.

Then I found a lounger on the sea front, swam and wrote most of this. It’s a tough life.

5th. Oct. Visit to Loryma Castle. k etc.  not known, Fitbit battery gave out.

Well it was meant to be an easy day, with just an simple 2.5 hr hike. It wasn’t.

It started well with a transfer to Serce Limani a very nice anchorage.

Then I chartered a boat, at great expense (150 TL) to take me round to Loryma. Very nice trip


Clam seas, view over to Rhodes, last visited some 50 years ago!, eventually coming in under Loryma Castle.


It’s enormous, this picture doesn’t do it justice. After jumping ship I walked up to it and along its ramparts 3m thick and stretching 320 m. 


Well  worth a visit next year. The views are pretty good too.


Then the nightmare began. A supposedly 2.5hr hike turned into a 4 hr sweat. 

Almost immediately from leaving the casks I lost the trail. I had come to a large red “x” usually the “wrong way” sign. I spent a while exploring alternatives before returning to said x and deciding it had to be the way, it was. But I soon lost it again. A half hour hike to the end of the bay turned into a hour. There was a nice restaurant and boat dock at the end of the bay so I stopped there. Initially it was just to cool down, did I mention it was hot again today, officially 31, but it seemed higher amount the rocks and out of what little breeze there was. As it was only 12 I said what the heck and gave myself an hour to have a couple of iced teas and some mezes and generally unwind. 

While I was there a large charter yacht disgorged a nice group of Americans from Southern California. We soon got to chatting. They were coming to the end of a four week charter. Very nice. They had a elder and more frail looking lady with them who was very chirpy. She said she would write me into the next story she wrote, that I was a very Hemingway character!!! I told her not to romanize what I was doing. They asked if I was blogging my trip so I gave them the site. I look forward to her comments on my Hemingway style writing.

Anyway shortly before 1pm I said my goodbyes and strode off in best Hemingway style up the hill behind the restaurant. 10 minutes later, on losing the trail again I reached in vain for my phone. I simulatianiously heard faint whistles from below me. Putting two and two together I realized I must have left it behind at the restaurant. I made my way rapidly back to collect it. Apparently they had been hollering for a while. So much for trying to make a good impression .

The rest of the hike was hot and annoying, I kept losing the trail, too many animal tracks crossing at all angles, and missing some major changes in direction. Much bushwacking/rock hopping was done to recover the trail. To add insult I must have hot a wrong button on the GPS app as it stopped working until I gave it some serious attention.

On the other a hand I did see a badger. Just. Momentarily. About 30 mitres off.

3 hours later I descended to the Serci Limani and promptly stripped to my shorts and jumped in the sea, and the had a gin and tonic while waiting for my transfer back to the pension.

Another dip in the pool and then a lounge in the evening sun.


Then dress and down to the sea front for some lamb, the first meat for a week, and the usual gorgeous sunset.